notes on obsecurity

We've been in Athens approximately 32 hours by now, though it feels much longer... such a stark change of pace makes for minor adjustment issues. I have mixed feelings on the city. I certainly don't hate it, but I'm not sure if I love it. I feel remarkably safe here, as far as big cities go. For whatever reason, greek people strike me as relatively harmless - probably a deceptive personal fable, but makes for a less-edgy perspective. All our guidebooks talk about the city being typical city - big, dirty, noisy. And while it certainly holds such qualities, it doesn't seem so in proportion to its size. I suspect this has been a change since the Athens Olympics (in '04). The Metro (subway) system is the slickest I've seen (event-planner envy) and the roads are in good condition (as far as European roads are concerned). [Side note: There are six SERIOUS gamers in this internet cafe and they're shouting about their computer games in greek... brings a new understanding to 'computer nerd.']

Thus far, in Athens, we've done a lot of walking and hit a few museums. We ate dinner atop some huge hill (starts with an 'L') , with absolutely sweeping views of all Athens, last night. Athens is a BIG city! It just sprawls and sprawls... We watched the sun go down over the city; it was all very picturesque. I went to the matriarchy museum I was all excited about; I was disappointed. But I did meet a really interesting guy, Miguel, from Spain, who was particularly interested in talking religion. It was a good challenge for me to discuss my ideas on faith, church and God in simple english (his english was good, but not technical, and he really knew little to nothing about Christianity).

We ate very greek today - yougurt and honey for breakfast (their yougurt is different than ours' [first of all, it's spelled 'yougurt']; it's much creamier and thicker [and probably more fattening]), for lunch - souvalaki (which is essentially skewers) on fried pita, and for dinner a greek salad [a new favorite] and some sort of spicy-ish pork stew dish.

Greece has a seemingly inordinate number of stray animals (cats and dogs) - harping back to my Mexico theory. It's strange, coming from Portland, where we just don't have strays at all. I just can't explain how bizarre it is to see dogs running around, with no home.

I know you've been wondering about the toilets, so let me share... again, with the Mexico comparison, there's some debate as to whether or not toilet paper is flushable. Some bathrooms have signs, some don't. Mom seems to think that it's fine to flush in new plumbing, but not in old. Many of the toilets have two flush buttons, like a big flush and a little flush (Sunday family - like in the bathroom in Googleville).

Most hotel rooms come with two sets of two towels - a normal sized bath towel and a HUGE (as in, size of a small bath towel) hand towel. We've had incredible luck getting seperate beds in our hotels (something we didn't have the pleasure of in Italy, w/the exception of the convent in Siena). And every hotel has had a bathtub shower... a true source of joy, after my experiences flooding nearly every bathroom we had in Italy.

Mom's turn on the computer. So long for now! Love to all.

P.S. Danny, Ryan - how was your last show?! Sorry I missed it!

samaria gorge - not as in biblical samaritans.

First - an update on internet cafe music... right now, Natalie Imbruglia. When we walked in, Shakira.

We did it. 11 miles, 17 kilometers, and eight hours later, we can say we hiked the Samaria Gorge. It was absolutely, completely, in every way worth it. I wish I could figure out how to upload pictures, so you could grab the tinest glimpse of the beauty we were immersed in yesterday, but you'll just have to take my word for it.

I think, in some ways, the length and physical challenge made it even more spectacular. On the one hand, I wish everyone could easily access the park, on the other hand, I like that I had to invest something to receive the magnificent outcome. It seems very economical - but in a fair and just way.

The gorge begins as a vast exapanse, defined by slabs of rock that make any biblical reference (or contemporary Christian worship song, as the case may be) to God being higher than the mountains understandable. These walls are absolutely dwarfing - not only putting humanity into perspective, but testifying to the grandness of creation. As we hiked through the gorge, we stumbled into empty riverbeds, which were near frightening to imagine in the midst of a winter storm (or flash flood...?). Seemingly out of nowhere, the dry riverbeds would wet, with slate-blue, almost icy looking, water. At times, it imposed that slightly terrifying awe that creation often elicits in me, but upon second (or fifth glance), it often mellowed into peaceful serenity. Further on through, the walls narrow (at one point to just three meters - nine feet - wide). I expected to feel claustrophobic, but I felt almost comforted in its power.

I can't wait to show y'all pictures of yesterday - please do google in the meantime. Beyond the above description, I must just reiterate the sense of awe at such remarkable beauty. In some ways, it felt familiar - almost fake because of the ways humanity has replicated nature. But that was exactly it - humanity has imitated nature, nature hasn't imitated humanity. And nature has a way of proclaiming its stake boldly - every familiarity I detected was juxtaposed with the obvious inception of beginning at divine creation.

In other godly-esque observations, I've been realizing more and more about my relationship with the greek language, and the strange ways it manifests in modern greek culture. This was actually glaringly obvious to me in Santorini, where I was determined to read something - anything - in greek (unsuccessfully determined, I might note. Other than that sign pointing to the holy temple, of course.). To me, because my education in greek has been for the sole purpose of reading scripture, I think I've learned to associate these distinct characters with some sort of divine implication. The language seems almost holy to me (in a way I certainly hadn't realized until now). Seeing these brush strokes I've learned to associate with scripture splashed across buildings to declare everything from cars to bars is strange... It almost strikes me as being unholy and a defilement to the language I've poured over. At first it was sad, almost tragic. I think it always is, when we realize that the things we associate with divinity are not, in fact, divine. And yet, it still reigns true - it still proclaims that God is wholly divine and we are not. I can pour over greek, studying every nuance of the language, but ultimately, my purpose in studying is to pour over scripture, and know every nuance of God. These manmade tools can be only that - tools propelling us to closeness with God, yet never things to replace closeness.

Okay, off my speculation on man's failings in seeking divinity and onto one last Samaria Gorge story... there were numerous signs posted to caution of falling rock. One such sign read (the english translation), "Great danger! Walk quickly." This struck me as particularly odd - "walk quickly" didn't seem like the best piece of advice one could offer. I think of similar signs at Multnomah Falls, and I believe they read something along the lines of "Great danger! Don't linger." Or "Great danger! Watch above." Or something that wouldn't imply danger as inevidable, suggesting that one take the pain as, well, painlessly as possible, but rather that danger can be avoided, with careful precaution. In fact, couldn't walking quickly actually increase your chances of danger? If you walk quickly (particuarly if you fail to follow the national park's "no high heels" rule) couldn't you more easily slip and fall, potentially then being pinned to the ground by said dangerous mammoth boulders in your effort to rise? I just don't think "walk quickly" is the best piece of advice...

Crete is raining today. So, alas, it's not the perfect greek oasis I'd thought... ah well, just makes me think of home. We go to Athens tomorrow (this trip seems to be sliding away quickly). I'm looking forward to two museums in particular (looking forward to museums is a rarity for me). One is at the base of the Acropolis, in the Agora - the ancient marketplace/gathering place of intellects (read: where Socrates, Plato and Aristotle spoke and where Paul preached). The museum is evidently filled with artifacts of democratic significance, tracing the development of greek democracy. Interesting! The other museum I'm particularly interested in follows the ancient matriarchal cultures in the Cyclades islands... also should be fascinating!

One last note - if you'd like a postcard, you'll need to e-mail me your address (beythhogue@gmail.com). Otherwise, there'll just be a large stack of postcards at my house, addressed to: "You, c/o Beyth" and that's just not as much fun... In particular, I need addresses for Anna, Rachael, Laura (both), Trippe/Davis(/Krispin?), Danny/Ryan/Adam, Jesse/Cait/Hannah, Cil/Kam, the 16 at large (JB - I sent your's to your mum's house...) and anyone else who thinks I should be sending them a postcard... Upon reciept of an address, I will gladly compose a very nice postcard.

That's it for now! A few personal notes below... My love to all, as always! - b.

Danny - I just want to confirm your theory on greek drivers. Whatever number of degrees all that adds up to is probably too small... But, ya know, we get anywhere we want to go VERY quickly in a taxi.

Laura and Trippe - how was Georgia?

Laura (the other one) - best of luck w/classes starting this week...

i'm a believer.

Yesterday said goodbye to Santorini and hello to Crete. I know you've been dying to hear juicy travel mishaps, and one finally manifested for your vicarious enjoyment...

We were on the ferry to Crete, which left Santorini an hour late (typical, we were informed). Mom was talking to an Australian man named David and I was pouring over Crete guidebooks. As I was reading about a possible drive, comparing the milage on the drive to the map - 77 miles, 5-6 hours, it occured to me that the town we were staying in was twice the distance of the drive. I looked at the map, and flipped back to the information on the drive, trying to come to some realization that would mean we were not in fact going to be stranded upon the arrival of our ferry. But I flipped to no avail...

In the course of 20 minutes (which felt both mind-bendingly long and short), we contemplated our absolute every option. We considered just how outrageously expensive it would be to take a taxi that distance. We contemplated just how severe our manual-driving ineptitude was. We wondered loudly, hoping our new Australian friend might have a magical solution. We didn't even pause to wonder how we made such a vast oversight (which, mind you, would not have been such an urgent problem had our ferry been landing in the light of day. Alas, we were docking at 8:30p - or 20:30 Greek time [which sounded dauntingly late to us].). Luckily, our passive-aggressive technique worked the magic those techniques never do. As luck would have it (or divine provision, which I think was far more likely the case), David and his friends were also staying in Chania (our way-too-far-away, but supposedly-very-quaint town). We attached ourselves to their group upon depature from the ferry, and, while their vehicles were packed, their friend informed us that the bus station was just a quick walk away.

Talk about divine provision - we huffed and puffed into the bus station, narrowly avoiding several vehicular encounters, TEN minutes before the LAST bus to Chania left. And we paid 10,50 euro! (MUCH cheaper than the anticipated break-the-bank taxi ride.) The bus left at nine, with us contentedly seated. It arrived in Chania at midnight (just, one more time, imagine the 3 hour taxi ride...). We arrived at our hotel moments later, via a very nice - and very quick! - taxi. WHEW!

We woke up this morning to the cloudless skies of which so many people have spoken... and now, NOW, it feels like Greece. Crete (at least, the small portion which we've seen) is devoid of the classic white-washed Greek architecture, but the ocean is absolutely breath-taking. This is the Greece I've dreamt of, seen in movies and have been counting the days 'til my toes would tickle the sea. We walked on soft sand, splashed in warm water and gawked at the plethora of ocean-side dining establishments today. We explored a market in Old Town Chania; it blew any other farmers'-esque market I've ever encountered out of the water. Fresh fruit spilling over everywhere, cheeses more impressive than we saw in Switzerland, and fish fresher than I imagine they'd be if they were still swimming.

I have a journal-full of other stories I can't wait to share, particularly detailing a bit more about Santorini. And I have plenty of thoughts to muse your way as well. Alas, it's about time we wrap it up for today. The Samaria Gorge awaits our enthusiastic arrival tomorrow and we must nourish and sleep in preperation. That's a blog I'm excited to write... (google pictures of "Samaria Gorge" if you get a chance.)

Love to all, - b.

P.S. My apologies, again, for the lack of editing.

greece or mexico?

Today was lovely... Mom woke me up to watch the sunrise - one of my favorite things to do, ever. Our hotel room faces the east side of the island, so we could stand at our window to watch the epic phenomenon. We walked a few towns over, via back streets. We wound through resorts and homes, never really knowing if we were on public or private property.

The more of the island we walk - which, by this point, is nearly the whole thing - the more striking the resemblences to Mexico I notice. It's bizarre... I question our understanding of civilization. We consider Greece civilized, but in so many ways it looks like what we think of as poverty - unimproved roads, old junky cars, mangy animals. A lot like my experiences in Tijuana (lame Mexico example, I know). And, I remember this striking me as odd in Italy - but in the midst of seemingly ancient buildings, technology and American normality exists. (And then, of course, there's this bizarre internet cafe we're at right now, in which people are smoking. Not only inside, but in the midst of quite literally a hundred computers. Would never fly in the states.)

We poked our heads inside a couple churches today, and, as I contemplated yesterday, they are relatively simplistic, decorated in little more than icons. I have a few questions for ye Orthodox friends, which I won't bother you with now...

Santorini has been a perfect place to recover from jet-lag (and end-of-school-lag). It's been slow-paced, we've walked a lot, and I've had plenty of time to ponder issues of culture. Travelling is good for me - as much as I like to think I have broad perspectives and an open mind to culture, exposure seems to challenge me to realize things I'm unaware I nearly demand are not, in fact, necessities. Being forced to confront things done differently places theory into practice (something always easier considered conceptually). Even being thrown into a place we, as Americans, consider advanced and such, as far as worldly cultures go, is a challenge to realize that advancement can exist in vastly different environments. I'll flesh out this theorizing upon our return.

In the meantime, we're headed to Crete tomorrow. Not only have I become incredibly excited for the Samaria Gorge hike, but I've even managed to talk Mom into joining me on all eleven miles.

Hope all is well at home. Miss y'all like crazy. It's funny how we constantly see people or things that remind us of people and things halfway across the world. Jakie, I miss you too, buddy. ;)

the toast club

(In the interest of saving a euro or two, I'm going to forego the editing process. My apologies in advance.)

After travelling for way too long, in front of tall people disabling the reclining function on our seats, we made our arrival in Athens. Dull commentary on the nature of non-pretentious hotels (sigh) aside, [side note: there's American music playing - Justin Timberlake, to be specific - in the internet/geek station right now] we made it to Santorini splendidly.

I was a bit disappointed that the lines everyone had fed us about cloudless skies were lies, but it's been absolutely beautiful nonetheless. The afternoons have cleared off to comfortable temperatures and - low and behold - enough sun for me to burn! We've mostly enjoyed walking around, discovering beaches, shops and endless restaurants. Both last night and tonight we dined at the cliff's edge, overlooking absolutely breathtaking views of the sun setting into the ocean.

Yesterday we walked approximately 8,371 stairs (well, it felt like it. In reality, I think it was closer to 600 - they're numbered, but we didn't check the last stair. Seemed more discouraging than it was worth.) down to the ferry port. There were an inordinate number of donkeys crowding our path, often forcing us to lean flat against the wall, praying we wouldn't get pinned. Mom didn't seem to think riding the donkeys would be enjoyable, but we certainly questioned this decision at every switchback as we played the mad-donkey-dash, running from side to side to avoid being trampled. It was a beautiful walk though. (Really, it was.)

In the midst of our walking, we've happened upon an absolute multitude of churches. They're very curious. Small. I don't think more than 5 - 8 people could fit in most of them, which certainly lends the question, "What are they for?" There are a couple large churches on the island, which I imagine host larger gatherings. Beyond size, the churches are interesting, purely in light of our other European experiences. They're simply decorated - white washed greek buildings, with blue domes and white crosses. We haven't seen the inside of any of them, but based on the icons prominately displayed just about everywhere else in the island, I would presume the interior is an elaborate collection of such decor. The simplicity, in contrast to the Italian basilicas we've become accustomed to, is thought-provoking. I'm sure I'll discuss this more upon my return...

My greek has proven relatively useless, with the execption of one obscure sign I read today, pointing to the holy temple. Neverthless, it's been a thrilling novelty to be able to pronounce the signage and such. So, though useless, there's an element of familiarity in the language that I didn't have in Italy. Again, in contrast to Italy, the lingusitic culture is fascinating. Anything and everything we could possibly need to know is in english. It seems safe to presume that anything in greek only is irrelevant to us. This both makes us feel comfortable and instills a bit of english-speaker guilt in us. It's funny to hear a greek server converse with a swedish speaking couple in english - a language foreign to both parties.

By and large it seems that the greek culture is welcoming to our presence. At times when I want to tiptoe around my nationality and language, it seems embraced. When Italians would have given us a cold stare we're received with open arms. It's a strange challenge to the travel mentality we've been taught - that is, of course, to travel under the guise of Candians. It'll be interesting to see how this changes in both Crete and Athens, as Santorini is certainly a place that survives on tourism.

Enough for now. Thanks again for your thoughts and prayers. Drop us a little comment of American relevance and we'll be glad for a piece of home. We truly wish you were here to experience all this with us!

off to adventure!

Mom and I are off on our latest European adventure tomorrow! Keep up with our travels via this blog. We welcome your comments, thoughts and prayers. Love to all!

Janice and Beyth See-the-World, part II

Sunday, 20 May

13:20 – depart PDX. Lufthansa flight #469W

Monday, 21 May

8:35 – arrive FRK
13:30 – depart FRK. Lufthansa flight #3382W
17:10 – arrive ATH

Athens – Holiday Inn (http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/)

Tuesday, 22 May

11:15 – depart ATH. Aegean Air flight #A3-354
12:00 – arrive JTR

Santorini – Costa Marina Villas (http://www.pelican.gr/)

Wednesday, 23 May

Santorini

Thursday, 24 May

Santorini

Friday, 25 May

17:45 – depart Thira. Hellenic SeaWays
19:25 – arrive Heraklio

Crete – Halepa Hotel (http://www.halepa.com/)

Saturday, 26 May

Crete

Sunday, 27 May

Crete

Monday, 28 May

Crete

Tuesday, 29 May

10:50 – depart CHQ. Aegan Air flight #A3-333
11:40 – arrive ATH

Athens – Adrian Hotel (http://www.douros-hotels.com/)

Wednesday, 30 May

Athens

Thursday, 31 May

Athens

Friday, 1 June

10:00 – depart ATH. Olympic Airlines flight #OA159
11:20 – arrive VIE

Vienna – Apartment #13 (http://www.central-apartments-vienna.com/)

Saturday, 2 June

Vienna

Sunday, 3 June

Vienna

Monday, 4 June

Hallstatt – Apartment (www.hallstatt.net/kerschbaumer)

Tuesday, 5 June

Salzburg – Hotel Goldene Krone (http://www.hotel-goldenekrone.com/)

Wednesday, 6 June

Salzburg

Thursday, 7 June

Salzburg

Friday, 8 June

Vienna – Ibis Hotel (http://www.ibishotel.com/)

Saturday, 9 June

7:00 – depart VIE. Lufthansa flight #6331W
8:35 – arrive FRK
9:55 – depart FRK. Lufthansa flight #468W
11:25 – arrive PDX